A structured gel manicure is a gel nail application that is applied thicker than just brushing on your gel product, as is the case when you do a Shellac or Gelish type manicure. Today we’ll be talking about 3 defining characteristics of a structured gel nail application. A structured gel manicure can also be called a structured gel overlay because in any case you are manicuring the hands and also overlaying them with a nail product. For the purpose of booking and pricing in the salon I used both terms, gel manicure and gel overlay, but I could have easily just said one or the other. For example, I called a “Gel Manicure” my procedure of applying a structured gel base and then the color, no builder gel at all. I then called a “Gel Overlay” the process of adding a thin base, followed by a structured soft builder gel. And as you may already know, that soft builder gel for me is Japanese soft builder gel. It’s got enough thickness and weight to it to give a reinforced but very natural apex and definition. I’ve always said that you can think about applying your gel base or builder in a structured manner as if you’re adding fillers to lips, not that I would know what that feels like, but I think we all know what that looks like, fillers plump the lips up. In the same manner we are plumping up the nails. And just like some plumped up lips can look like a bit too much, so can some structured gel nail services. So it does take a little finesse to apply just the right amount of gel so that the application looks aesthetically pleasing. Here are the 3 defining characteristics of a structured gel nail application. Structured Gel Manicure Defining Characteristic #1 In order to achieve a structured gel nail application (remember A.K.A. gel manicure or gel overlay) you must use a thicker viscosity gel. Usually this is what your options look like: Very often you see on Instagram nail techs using a tinted builder in a bottle product to create their structured overlays. The viscosity of these is typically thick, and they have a semi-hard texture that makes them quite durable. They also tend to self level like a dream. Two downsides of tinted base gels for me, their not huge, just personal preference to me. #1 A few of them require bonders and primers for long wear. These 2 adhesion improving agents can over time take their toll on the natural nails, making them yellow, dehydrated or brittle, or a combination of all of these. #2 Is that most of them offer a variety of foundation shades, but when it comes to re-balancing, you will have to remove just about the entire old gel product to work with the natural hue of the nail again or not mind the different shade of gel if you will be re-applying the product but in a different shade. Again not big deterrents just some personal preferences, and if yo want to stay strictly Japanese Gel Kokoist is the only one that carries tinted builder in a bottle. And it is a 3 in one option, base, builder, and color. Now for at least 6 years, I have been structuring my gel nail applications with premium soft potted gel formulas. I started with Bio Sculpture before moving strictly to Japanese Gel. In the salon I loved overlaying with Bio Sculpture Base Gel for my structured gel manicure services. It just has such a nice viscosity and the adhesion to the natural nail is unparalleled. Super gentle, but super strong. However, at that time I found Japanese Soft Builder Gel to be stronger, and my clients were wanting to go longer with their natural nail overlays and so that is why I made the shift. As you may already know, my favorite brands of soft potted gel including Bio Sculpture are Vetro, Leafgel, & Kokoist, and honestly you cannot go wrong with any one you choose for your structured gel overlay application. Bio Sculpture has even made new formulations of builder since my first training with them. Vetro’s builder gel is called Extension Clear II, Leafgel’s is called Sculpting Gel II, and Kokoist’s is called Excel. So to recap defining characteristic #1… In order to achieve a beautiful structured gel nail applications, you need a thicker viscosity gel. When using premium soft potted gel as I do. Bio Base Gel is excellent for short to medium length nails, for longer natural nails add a soft builder gel. Structured Gel Manicure Defining Characteristic #2 Thicker gel nails. But hold up… thicker does not mean ugly and bulky. Your structured gel nails will be thick in all the right places. And again, when I say thick… I am not saying just load up your brush with as much gel as possible and plop it on the nail, there is some technique to this to allow for beautiful self-leveling. We’ll get to this in more detail in our next characteristic. Now I can tell you this for certain… by making your gel nail application thicker, you’ve already increased your gel nails wearability by like A-LOT! Now, if you can give it the perfect definition, AKA structure by your self-leveling technique you are golden! Now I gotta be honest here, out of your whole roster of clientele, there may be literally one or maybe 2 clients that actually will not like a thicker gel nail application, no matter how beautiful your structured gel nail application is. They really want that flat polish look which is pretty, but there are a couple things they should consider if they opt out your structured gel nail application, and no… this does not mean you have to discount their service either. Sooo… what do you do? Well #1. I would strongly encourage you to explain to your client why it is that you opt in for more voluminous applications. Let her know that this method of application provides for the longest wear of her gel nails. Let her know that you trust this method of application and it is the one that actually makes you insure your work. And #2. Allow her to opt out, and into a thinner gel base application (so you’ll use the same gels, you would just not structure them) but not without letting her know that her gel nails may wear a little less, but Hey, let’s try it! So to recap characteristic #2 thick, but defined. Structured Gel Manicure Defining Characteristic #3 Smooth apex… So in the previous defining characteristic of a structured gel nail application I alluded to having good definition when applying your gel thicker. You cannot and will not, promise me, just apply a thick blob of gel and just call it a structured gel manicure. Instead, to achieve a beautiful self-leveled or structured gel nail application you need to build an apex. Let me take you through where exactly an apex should be placed. First off… What is an apex? An apex is the area of your gel application with the highest point, the highest peak. It should be smooth and also should be where the highest concentration of gel lies. In other words, your highest concentration of gel should not be at the cuticle area or the free edge, and I went over this in last week’s video, so make sure to check it out at the end of this video, or come back to this part again and click the card at top. Now that you know what the apex is, where do you set it. The apex is there to protect the stress area of the nails. The stress area of the nails lies on the end of the smile line of the nail. The smile line is the connection area where the free-edge stops being connected to the bed nail. Most of us have a smile line shape, others have a straight line or maybe if there is a bit of damage something squigly is happening instead. Naturally, our first inclination will be to just place that apex exactly at the smile line, but I want you to actually place it up to 2cm behind because you want to account for the growth of those nails, and so that apex will shift in a couple of weeks. Your goal is to place that apex a little behind so that during those weeks your clients nails stay structured and protected. The best way to create a beautiful tall apex using potted soft gel, is to turn the hand upside down and allow gravity to form it for you. Alright, time to bring it all home. What is a structured gel manicure? A thicker gel nail application that is perfectly balanced with an apex to support the natural nail. Thank you so much for joining me today, and if you would like to know more about soft potted gel formulas like Japanese Gel and application check out my brand new masterclass down in the description box below. Have a merry start to the week and I’ll see you in the next one. Bye for now.
I want something to add strength to my gelish manicures. My clients extensions fall off quite quick so I'm not sure if I should get gelish builder or structure to add strength!! As well as this, do they both soak off like the gelish polish?
Thanks and sorry in advance if I'm doing this wrong! *new geek* :3
Are you doing extensions with Gelish? Talk us through your method.
Okay I buff the nail, prime etc then do my extension, blend etc
Prime again then gelish foundation, two coats of colour, top it off. All cured under the led 6g lamp
Prime again then gelish foundation, two coats of colour, top it off. All cured under the led 6g lamp
For the highlighted part, do you mean you apply a tip?
Yes glue on the tip and buff down to blend
What am I doing wrong? This is the way I was taught in college and with Jessica training :s
If you have chosen to work with a different product, then you need to know how to apply that one. They all differ, which is why those companies offer conversion courses. Look up the Nail Harmony site for training near you.
I've seen a YouTube video of extensions with Gelish 'do your own at home' rubbish.
On the nail harmony website it says the builder is good for adding strength to nail tips so I will buy that and give it a go
Builder is a buff off system and structure is soak off and both are completely different for their uses. You will need the harmony 6g or 18g to cure the builder and must be applied as per the training so not to cause breakdown and possible overexposure.
Personally I would book onto the harmony hard gel training course if this is how you are wanting to create enhancements.
Good Luck with whatever you choose to do
If you want to create enhancements, you're only going to achieve strength and longevity with Gelish Hard Gel (builder gel). Gelish Structure should only be used on natural nails to add strength, or to correct imperfections in the nail plate. Hth xx
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Sorry Beautific...posted at the same time! lol xx
Sent from my iPhone 5S using SalonGeek mobile app
No problem :lol:, on the same page though hey x
Okay thanks so much! I have clients this week and they want extensions and I just needed something to add a little strength so they don't break off if they are a little harder on their nails.
I will book in for a gelish training course soon when I save but for this client what can you recommend to add a little strength? Could I use a gelish hard gel as a layer and the normal colours ontop?
Yes but make sure the apex is placed correctly which will create strength then shape with your 180 file before applying your gelish colour coats x
Thank you so much
I'm sorry but you really shouldn't be working on clients if you have not had any training in this gel. Do you have insurance?
Are your clients aware that you are not trained in gels?
This is a totally new area to me. I'm starting my manicure unit this week and harmony have said that as soon as my tutors have passed my unit, if I supply a letter headed reference from the college, I can do my training. Can I just clarify - the gelish polish can only be applied to natural nails? I'm not looking to do extensions etc. (well, not this year) so I would just apply to a totally natural nail - is that correct?
Thanks Page 2
I dont mean to be rude just worried about you working with invalid insurance worried for your clients.
Thanks
Yes, you can apply gelish polish on natural nails. It's made for natural nails, but you can also put it on enhancements.
Hi Nikki, I agree with what you say but it really does depend on the insurance company. I work in insurance myself and can honestly say it's down to the insurer. Each individual needs to check their policy wording as they may be slightly different. I myself have liability insurance and did not have to disclose which products I use. I trained with a private beauty school and then was free to choose which product we wanted to use (unless that company require you to do their own training like Bio Sculpture). I use Gelish myself which was just through choice and am trained to offer extensions - again not trained with nail harmony but am insured to offer this. Just saying, depending on the insurer, you don't have to be trained with that specific company to be insured xx
I've got to say it's the bet thing since sliced bread for me, yes my application needs to improve but i highly recommend it.
Oh and for the record.. I am saving up to do the hard gel training with Nail harmony as I feel I would benefit more with some training with them and how they use their products before I offer out to my clients as different companies have different ways of applying etc! Oh and to the original poster, I would try and wait until you have had the training with nail harmony, if you can, before offering this service to your clients xx
But if you dont ask then how do you know what you are doing, we are here to help.
I am all for helping, honestly. But in a professional manner, please.
This thread read to me like the op was applying tips and Gelish gel polish. No structure or builder gel, just foundation, colour and tio over the tips.
Sorry my mistake, i think i missed that bit (not knowing difference between gelish and hard gel)
I think everyone needs to calm down a bit here. Fair enough there are people who come on this and have no training but I am only doing people I know at the minute as clients to gain experience and money to have gelish training. I am fully qualified in other gels and with research I have found my answer and I do know the difference between the gelish gel polish and the hard gel. Thanks for the help everyone
The nail industry can be such a minefield at times, good luck xxx
No problem. As the previous poster has just explained, the methods described sounded more like a DIYer. I find it hard to comprehend that someone with even a basic manicure training and insurance wouldn't have at least some knowledge of the difference between a gel manicure and a nail extension.
I'm literally only just starting out properly and everyone's gotta start out somewhere right?
Maybe I'll just stick to the free form acrylics and putting the gel colour ontop of them lol
If you are doing l&p then you will know that there's not enough strength in Gelish polish to hold a tip. That would risk serious damage to the nail as it would flex or ping off bringing layers of the nail plate off. That was my concern with the original post.
Other questions on this website have all asked the exact same thing as I have and some replies have said that they use structure over nail tips and it works as long as the apex is correct.
I will only offer this to people if they want a few mm of extra length or if it's one nail but not a full set. Then will purchase the hard gel if they want a full set of longer extensions
Hi Gina yes structure gel can be used for very short extensions but for more strength builder is better.
I wish you every success in your new career as should others, yes its frustrating that there are people having paid for training and seeing someone without it asking for advice but on the flip side we all had to start somewhere.
After all this is what I thought salon geek was all about....helping out fellow techs? :hug: x
After all this is what I thought salon geek was all about....helping out fellow techs? :hug: x
Thank you very much I get very annoyed at people who learn from the internet and do clients when I am paying and spending so much time on all this training so I understand why people thought I was like that too but I really was just asking a simple common question that may have been obvious to some but not others All the best x |
What is the difference between builder gel and Structure Gel?
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