Can you remove non Condensables from refrigerant?

Most of my hard core learning came in the early days of my career.  I was thrown into many situations I probably had no business being involved in and like most young apprentices, there were more than a few royal f@#k ups.  I remember vividly, my first encounter with non condensables in a system and you guessed it, I put them there or more accurately, failed to remove them.  

The Job

We were installing a 5 ton Liebert Challenger for a small server room.  The condenser was outfitted with an OROA flood back control, to build condenser pressure in low ambient conditions.  The job went well for the most part but it did include a fall from a ladder, a compound fracture, a hospital visit and fusible plug that was accidentally torched that melted the solder within it, but those stories are for another day.  On the lighter side, myself, Carlos and Mike were the install crew and when I told the boss about the fusible plug incident he asked who torched it.  Growing up with the phrase, "snitches get stitches", I told him I'd rather not say.  But, like most bosses he demanded to know.  My response, "well, it wasn't me or Carlos".  Technically speaking, I fed Mike to the wolves but I never mentioned his name once!  

The Start Up

We were on the back nine approaching the 18th hole (evacuation of the system).  After pulling a vacuum overnight we added a holding charge, pounding liquid into the liquid line until the system stopped accepting it. The power supply was checked and verified as correct.  Upon initial start up, instantaneous high pressure fault and no it wasn't a faulty pressure switch, the pressure was actually 400 psi plus on the R22 system.  After a few hours of this and that, I finally made the call to the office, I needed some help.  

The Grumpy Senior Tech

The grumpiest, but smartest of the bunch "super tech" showed up and I was thankful because I knew he would get the situation sorted out.  After an hour or so of surveying the site and installation he went straight to the condenser mounted on the roof, stuck a hose on the service fitting at the highest location and blew off about 30 seconds worth of gas (which I am not recommending anyone do).  We went back down to the indoor unit and started it up, no longer did it instantly pop the pressure control, it ran...but not so well.  He explained to me that there was air still in the system (non condensables).  I was dumbfounded because of our 14 hour evacuation.  It turns out that on a system with a flood back control and liquid line solenoid valve, we must energize the solenoid during evacuation... If not, we will be unable to remove the air trapped between the two devices.  The entire charge was removed, the evacuation was executed once more, with the solenoid energized.  A fresh batch of R22 was charged into the system and we called it a day....A long day!  

What Are Non Condensables 

Non condensables are gases such as air or nitrogen that can not be condensed during the refrigeration cycle.  They move into the condenser and cause issues within a system, but lucky for us, those issues have symptoms.

Symptoms Of Non Condensables 

We talked about the elevated discharge pressure, this is due to the fact that the non condensables are talking up needed space within the condenser coil.  The elevated pressure in the condenser will cause higher than normal compression ratios as well.  Due to the increased condenser pressure and saturated condensing temperatures, the condenser temperature difference or condenser split will also be high (difference between condensing temperature and ambient temperature).  Others things to look for...possible increase of suction pressure, high compressor amp draw and higher than normal subcooling.  Use best pratice evacuation procedures to ensure all non condensables are removed for a healthy operating system.   

Some lessons can't be learned from books, you must breathe in the mistakes and embrace them as learning experiences.  Happy HVACing!

Check out the link to my YouTube channel for more tips, tricks, and troubleshooting videos and check out the The HVAC Know It All podcast here or on your favourite podcast app.  

Gary McCreadie

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Non-condensables are gases that will not condense into a liquid within the operating temperatures of the refrigeration system. Air and nitrogen are the most likely non-condensables you will see. Air can enter a refrigeration or A/C system when improper service and evacuation procedures are not followed or when you have had a leak on the low side.

Nitrogen can enter the system in other ways. The new Dry R22 A/C units and most refrigeration equipment are shipped from the factory with a holding charge of dry nitrogen, not refrigerant. Once the refrigeration lines are connected, the service valves need to be opened and all of this nitrogen holding charge must be removed. The condensing unit should then be evacuated to 500 microns along with the lines and evaporator coil.

When working with precharged equipment like R410A, care needs to be taken during leak checking procedures. Some A/C manufacturers require leak testing by pressurizing the system with nitrogen to 400 or even 500 PSI. These high pressures can potentially push nitrogen past the stop valves on the condensing unit and into the condensing unit refrigerant charge. To prevent this from happening, make sure to tighten down the stop valves completely before pressure testing. The stop valves may be sealed enough to hold the R410A in but not to keep the high-pressure nitrogen out. Always use a nitrogen regulator with an accurate gauge to ensure you don’t over-pressurize your system. Make sure to check the manufacturer's recommendations before pressure testing.

If you do get nitrogen in the system, you will have high head pressure with high sub-cooling (cool liquid line) before you get the system fully charged. Suction pressure may be low and system performance will be poor. In most cases, you will have high evaporator superheat and a high suction line temperature, but superheat may be normal. To confirm, shut the system off and let the pressures equalize. Allow the condenser to cool to the outdoor air temperature. Check the pressure on the high side gauge and convert it to temperature using a PT chart. This saturated temperature should be within a couple degrees of outdoor air temperature. If this saturation temperature is any higher, you have nitrogen or non-condensables in the system.

The entire charge should be removed into a clean and dry recovery cylinder. The system should be evacuated to 500 microns and recharged using new refrigerant. The old refrigerant can be reused after purging the nitrogen or non-condensables from the recovery cylinder.

Are you a homeowner or own a commercial property? Check out mybryantdealer.com to find a Bryant dealer near you!

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