What type of permanent hair removal is best?

Laser hair removal is used more frequently nowadays to help remove hair long term. As the technology has improved, this service has become more moderately priced for the average citizen, and several different methods have been developed.

The type of laser treatment you end up getting will be based on your own specific profile – mostly, what tone is your skin and what is your hair like. These characteristics are important for choosing the laser that will be the most effective on your hair.

There is a level of skill involved in performing laser hair removal treatments. The laser technician’s experience may also dictate how many sessions you have to go for, how much discomfort you feel, and how long each session takes.

Below are the five different types of laser hair removal treatments and a description of how they work:

Type #1: Alexandrite Laser Hair Removal

One of the popular types of laser hair removal is the Alexandrite method. This laser type is ideal for people with light skin tones, and is said to hurt slightly less than some of the other types of lasers. However, part of the reason it doesn’t hurt as bad is that the wavelength of the laser is shorter, which means it doesn’t penetrate as deeply.

The Alexandrite treatment may take more sessions to achieve permanent hair removal, because the wavelengths are shorter. Even if the hair removal is not permanent, it is much longer lasting than any other hair removal method such as waxing, shaving, or threading.

Type #2: Diode Laser Hair Removal

These lasers are often compared against Alexandrite. They have a longer wavelength for deeper penetration of the skin. Diode laser treatments are highly effective for individuals with courser hair and medium dark skin tones. This type of laser hair removal is a very versatile method. With increased advancements in technology, it can be an almost painless procedure.

Compared to other types of laser hair removal treatments, the Diode laser treatment often require less sessions for completion. Of course, the number of sessions will ultimately vary based on each individual’s configuration.

Type #3: Ruby Laser Hair Removal

This type of laser hair removal was one of the first that was ever developed. As a result, it is becoming obsolete because it tends to be much slower than other methods. It is almost not as effective on darker and courser hair, but is better for lighter, finer hair and light skin. The nice part about Ruby lasers, however, is that it has been around long enough for there to be a ton of research and knowledge about its effectiveness and side effects.

After the treatment, you may experience some side effects. However, these side effects are not permanent, and are almost never serious. Using a cold compress and moisturizing will alleviate the discomfort and will make the effects go away faster.

Side effects of laser hair removal can include swelling, soreness similar to the feeling of a sunburn, and redness on the treatment area. Not everyone will experience these side effects, and some people will react differently to different lasers. Because darker skin absorbs light more easily, individuals with darker skin are more prone to experiencing burning as a side effect, however using the right laser is key to avoiding this.

Type #4: Nd and LP Nd: YAG

This is a heavy-duty laser. It works best on thicker and courser hair. It is also the best Type for individuals who have darker skin. In fact, it is less effective for individuals with lighter skin and finer hair, so those people should opt for a different laser treatment. Of any type of laser treatment, Nd and LP Nd: YAG treatments have the longest wavelength, which means they tend to be a bit more uncomfortable than other types.

The different types of lasers also dictate the likeliness that the treatment will be permanent. For instance, the Nd and LP Nd: YAG lasers have the longest wavelength, which means they penetrate the deepest. These lasers are more likely to reach the absolute bottom of the root of the hair, and kill it permanently after several sessions.

Type #5: IPL (Intense Pulsed Light)

Although it is often classified under a laser hair removal treatment, IPL is not actually a laser, it is just a light, and as the name indicates, intense pulsed light is used to damage the hair follicles in a similar way that lasers are used in other types of treatment. IPL is highly customizable to the individual. The wavelength and power levels can be adjusted to meet the needs of the individual based on their skin tone and hair qualities.

The IPL treatment will take place over the course of several sessions. Each person is different regarding the number of sessions they require. This may also have something to do with your skin tone and the thickness of your hair. The laser you choose may require fewer or more sessions. If the hair is still coming back in some areas, you may need to go back for more treatments no matter what laser you choose.

After experiencing the many pitfalls of shaving (ingrown hairs, redness, irritation, and speedy re-growth), we're contemplating alternative hair removal methods this season. Since professional laser hair removal isn't the most budget-friendly option (initial sessions can cost upwards of $600), we're looking at the next best thing: the best at-home laser hair removal devices on the market.

We need to reassert, before we go any further, that body hair is a completely natural, normal thing, and you should absolutely not feel compelled to remove it if you don't want to—it's a personal choice. (If you're a body hair, don't care kind of person, more power to you!) But if you're into the idea of laser hair removal, are over trying to find the best razors, waxing kits, or epilators on the market, want to save some money, but are a little freaked about the idea of doing laser hair removal at home, we've got you covered. 

How does laser hair removal work?

New York-based dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD explains: "Laser hair removal is a treatment where a laser is used to permanently destroy the hair follicle and remove the hair. A laser is a beam of light of a single wavelength that is absorbed by a specific target in the skin.  In the case of hair removal, the light is absorbed by pigment within the hair follicle itself. As the laser destroys the follicle, it will not grow back, giving a permanent effect. This is true whether you are getting a professional or an at-home treatment." 

How long does laser hair removal last?

"The term laser hair removal is a bit misleading, as it really should be called laser hair reduction," notes Dr. Zeichner. "In some cases it may be difficult to fully remove hair completely." He also says that "the lasers definitely decrease the density of hair and the thickness of each individual hair," and that "it takes multiple treatments to give the results most people are looking for"—so like most pricey beauty treatments, its best to stay patient when waiting for your results. 

"Each treatment will partially destroy the follicle, so repeated treatments are often needed for the full effects," he explains. "The difference between at-home and professional strength treatments is the energy level of the laser. At-home devices have much lower energy levels to make sure they are safe to use at home, unsupervised.  As a result, these treatments are slower to work and require more sessions to give noticeable improvements."

Are at-home laser hair removal devices safe?

Dr. Zeichner considers at-home lasers a safe alternative to in-office treatments. "At-home devices work similarly to professional treatments, but use lower energy levels. They are more time-consuming to use, but can help. They are also a great option to maintain improvements between professional treatments." 

Along with Dr. Zeichner, we chatted with Dr. Howard Sobel, M.D., NYC dermatologist and founder of Sobel Skin; Dr. Rosemarie Ingleton, M.D., dermatologist and medical director of Ingleton Dermatology; and Dr. Rachel Nazarian, M.D., dermatologist at the Schweiger Dermatology Group, to tell us the best laser hair removal devices that really, truly work. Dr. Gretchen W. Frieling, a Boston-based triple-board-certified dermatopathologist, and Dr. Anahita Mansouri, a cosmetic doctor at Kat & Co Aesthetics in the UK, about the very best at-home laser hair removal devices that you can use at home.

Shop The Best At-Home Laser Hair Removal Devices

How should you prepare for laser hair removal?

Dr.Frieling says that you should actually shave a day ahead of when you plan to use your laser hair removal device. Similarly, she recommends staying clear of self-tanners and spray tans at least two weeks before, too. Finally, she says it’s important to “avoid potentially irritating products such as retinoids, retinal, or retinoic acids" prior to your treatment, as well as “brightening ingredients and acidic cleansers."

What should you do after laser hair removal?

Dr. Mansouri says to avoid exercising (or sweating, for that matter) for up to two days. Both sweating and heat can cause “irritation on freshly treated skin after a session is completed,” she says. 

It’s also important to stay out of the sun for two weeks. To be extra careful, Mansouri says to wear loose-fitting clothing, and keep your skin cool. Furthermore, you should “avoid topicals, including makeup, except for aloe vera gel or calming and soothing creams,” to allow your skin to heal correctly. 

Meet The Dermatologists

Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research in Dermatology and an Associate Professor of Dermatology at the Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.

Dermatologist & Founder of Sobel Skin

Dr. Howard Sobel, MD, operates Sobel Skin, a private practice for dermatology, cosmetic surgery, and aesthetic medicine in the Upper East Side of Manhattan in New York City. Sobel Skin was a part of the early stages of the medspa / medi-spa evolution in the United States. Dr. Sobel has been a pioneer of the union between dermatology & cosmetic surgery. Over the years, Dr. Sobel has not only been known for his expertise in all aesthetic treatments, but as one of the best botox and fillers doctors in New York City. His ability to provide an exceptional outcome never fails, and patients’ are not only thrilled with their results, but also feel younger and rejuvenated after treatment.

Dr. Sobel combines modern technology with over thirty years of experience. His unique practice provides the latest advances in dermatology, dermatologic cosmetic surgery and progressive face and body treatments all in one luxurious Park Avenue facility. 

Dr. Sobel’s focus within dermatology is to further the total well-being and health of his patients and those who use the products he formulated and created.

Assistant Clincal Professor of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital

Dermatologist at the Schweiger Dermatology Group

Dermatologist & Founder of GFace Medical

Dermatologist